Tag Archive: Trafalgar Square

Unsettling Gazes at St Martin-in-the-Fields

A new sculpture exhibition has just opened at St Martin-in-the-Fields, Trafalgar Square, London.

Forty, somewhat disturbing,  figures are dotted around the church.

Robert Koenig's Odyssey

Robert Koenig's Odyssey

Robert Koenig's Odyssey

They are all the work of Robert Koenig and will be on display until Friday 20 July.

The exhibition is called  Odyssey and is “Koenig’s attempt to call up his Polish ‘ancestral ghosts’ by carving a large group of male and female figures, each 2.5m tall, out of lime trees which grew in his mother’s home village of Dominikowice in South East Poland. These trees bore witness to the many dramatic events that shaped the lives of people over the last 100 years.”

I have put a few more photos on Flickr here and will add to these over the coming months.

The author of this blog is a qualified and insured  City of Westminster Tour Guide who runs unique walking tours and private tours in London, please see tabs for details.

The Royal Academy’s Plan for London (1942) Part One

In January 1940 Sir Edwin Lutyens, President of the Royal Academy, invited architect members of the RA, and others, to form a committee. The committee’s task was to prepare a report on the “ideal” possibilities that could be achieved when it  came time to rebuild London after the war. Its work was undertaken with the approval and backing of  King George VI. In 1942 the committee produced their report, London Replanned and submitted it to all the relevant authorities. Shortly after it was published by Country Life with copies selling for 2/ 6d.

On the cover we have this idealised view of Saint Paul’s cathedral.

The RA saw this as one of their “most important proposals”.

A new view of St. Paul’s is opened from the river, and will appear as an avenue with grass centre, flanked at one point by the existing College of Arms. On the river front, barge houses for Royal and Civic ceremonies, or similar buildings for public purposes, are suggested, and these should flank a flight of river steps for use on ceremonial occasions and form an architectural foreground to the magnificent view. The avenue would not be a traffic thoroughfare, and would be crossed by the south arm of the City Loop-way, carrying Embankment traffic from Blackfriars to the Tower.

Here is an accompanying map showing planned “improvements” to the road system around St. Paul’s.

At no point could the committee be accused of lacking ambition or vision. This is their view of a post-war London looking from Westminster towards  The City.

And here is the committee’s proposal for Piccadilly Circus.

The size of the Circus is doubled to meet the traffic requirements. This involves the removal of the London Pavilion and other buildings to a point in line with the Haymarket, from the centre of which a new terminal building is seen, and closing the South end of Shaftesbury Avenue and adjacent streets. A new main Street continues Piccadilly Eastwards from the Circus, passing approximately along the line of Lisle Street to a new circus North-East of Covent Garden.

North of the Circus an open space (or piazza) for pedestrians is formed, in front of a public building or possibly a theatre. The architecture reproduces that of Regent Street for the purpose of this drawing, but the whole question requires careful consideration at the appropriate time.

The committee seemed very keen on circuses, whatever their shape, and indeed roundabouts of all types. There is another one to be seen here in their plan for Charing Cross and Trafalgar Square.

Here the committee certainly start boldly.

Charing Cross Station is removed and a road bridge provided, with suitable access to adjoining streets. In the Strand a large roundabout is formed between King William Street and the present Station, to distribute the traffic and as an architectural feature, with underground garages entered through archways. Charing Cross Road is re-aligned in its lower length to bring the traffic to the roundabout and to overcome the congestion between St. Martin’s Church and the National Gallery. The Westminster City Hall is rebuilt
approximately on its old site with improved road facilities.

Trafalgar Square is enlarged on the South side, thus bringing the Nelson Column into the centre of the Square. Obstructions to the Admiralty Arch and Northumberland Avenue are removed, and the building brought into proper architectural relation to the Square. To the North, the new Eastward extension of Piccadilly is seen carried over Charing Cross Road by a viaduct.

So a new road bridge instead of Charing Cross station and its rail bridge and a new viaduct too. Here is the RA’s  proposal for another bridge, Waterloo, and the surrounding area on the North bank of the Thames.

A large roundabout is formed on the Lyceum site connecting the Bridge on the South with the Strand, Aldwych and the new northern approach.

A suitable building is designed to close the vista from the bridge ; Savoy Chapel and churchyard are opened up so that they can be seen from the Strand.

Some of the RA’s ambitions for Covent Garden, depicted below, were actually realised, albeit decades later.

COVENT GARDEN – A GARDEN AGAIN
The Market is removed to a position on the Ring Road, where ft will have better rail and road facilities, and will no longer add to the congestion in Central London. The site of the Market becomes a garden, as originally was the case. The old colonnades and pavilions are preserved as an historic feature, making a pleasant theatre promenade.

Here is a map of the area from the plan.

A new Opera House is shown on the North side (1). and a new Concert Hall on the South (2). These buildings, together with Drury Lane Theatre (3) Would form a centre for the musical and dramatic arts, as distinct from Shaftesbury Avenue. devoted, as heretofore, to general theatrical enterprise.

North of Covent Garden the new extension of Piccadilly from Piccadilly Circus is seen dividing at a roundabout just North of the existing Opera House, whence a new thoroughfare connects with the British Museum and London University.

And here are those plans for the British Museum and University of London.

The development of the University of London adds immeasurably to the importance of Bloomsbury, where the British Museum has hitherto been tucked away without any adequate approach. The old mean streets In front of the Museum are cleared away, and a broad vista, or forecourt, to the facade is opened from Holborn, where a traffic circus is created. The forecourt is flanked with new hostels for University students, and contains St. George’s Church, freed from obscuring buildings and forming a fine contrast to the Museum beyond. From the Holborn traffic circus a new road connects Bloomsbury with Covent Garden.

And, after the demolition of all those “mean streets”, this is the view we might have enjoyed.

In the second half of this post,  I feature the committee’s plans for: South Kensington, Buckingham Palace, Victoria, Hyde Park Corner, a model Ring Road, Southwark & London Bridge, a new Park for South London, a garden on Tower Hill and a rather nice advert from the people who brought us Saint Pancras.

If you feel the need to immerse yourself in still more unrealised grand plans for London there is an excellent series of features on Unbuilt London on the Londonist site and  last year I also wrote about Mr Cawston’s 19th Century vision for the city.

The author of this blog is a qualified City of Westminster Tour Guide who runs unique walking tours throughout Westminster, see tabs for details.

An Unusual Christmas Day in London Updated

For several years my Christmas Days have been devoted to walking around Central London and this year will be no different. Except that this year I will be working. My family generally get up and do the presents/stockings etc.  at around 5am, the aim is to be out of the house by about 5.30am and we don’t return home until the early evening. We might cover 10-12 miles on foot during a typical Christmas Day.

I realise that for some people this might not seem very Christmassy but it suits us down to the ground because I think Christmas Day is by far the most magical day to explore the city. The so familiar, iconic sights, are experienced anew, as if seen through fresh eyes, when the streets are truly empty.

Piccadilly Circus

The idea for these early morning walks was inspired by the film 28 Days Later. In that classic Danny Boyle film London is virtually deserted. I wanted, like the character Jim, to be able to walk across Westminster Bridge and be the only person on it. I wanted to explore the eerily empty streets and luckily so did my children! The only day of the year when such an experience is possible is Christmas Day and if you want to guarantee exclusive temporary use of the bridge you need to do so before dawn.

Oxford Street

The pre-dawn Christmas starts have enabled us to be the only people in Trafalgar Square, Piccadilly Circus and Leicester Square. We have sauntered down the middle of Regent and Oxford Streets without seeing a soul. We have been alone in Covent Garden, Fitzrovia and Soho. Squirrels and birds in St James’s Park, look genuinely confused by the fact that there no other humans around to offer a peanut or some bread.

St James's Park

By around dawn it becomes possible to find the odd place for a coffee. By lunchtime several pubs are open and we tend to pop in for an aperitif. After lunch we stroll around again, the possibilities for interesting walks are infinite. The pavements are a little busier by now but the road traffic is still minimal.  There are no wheely suitcases to be seen. Nobody is really going anywhere, there is nothing to buy and nothing else to do. The atmosphere is jovial all day, strangers greet and wish each other a “Happy Christmas”. By dusk the streets start to empty again and the Christmas lights come to the fore. And so we head back to the Sky+ and some decent wine.

It might not suit everyone to spend Christmas day walking around London. I am lucky, I live centrally so the lack of public transport makes no difference to me. But if you like me are somewhat obsessed with Central London in all its glory I do suggest that you try one year to see it on Christmas Day.

This year I will be walking again but for the first time in the company of visitors and London enthusiasts. A good mate of mine and an excellent guide, Colin Davey and I have teemed up to offer three unique Christmas Day walks:

Update 28th December 2011

Colin and I ran three tours during the day, the first, London at Dawn began at 6am, then another after breakfast and finally one after lunch.

Each was different but all were hugely enjoyable. We would like to thank all the wonderful local Londoners and visitors from Malaysia, Australia, Canada, Mexico and Uruguay who joined us. During the day we walked with true London experts, a professional historian, students, local workers, visitors and the indefatigable EdLondonDog.

The distances some people had walked to join us were staggering. One family had walked down from Swiss Cottage, other people came from Tower Bridge, Vauxhall, Chalk Farm and Holloway. A charming group of Canadians had only flown into Heathrow just a few hours before joining us and did the whole walk sustained by nothing more than their airline food!

All these hardy, good-humoured, interested and interesting walking companions really made the day special. It was so thoroughly enjoyable that, despite being hardly able to walk for two days afterwards, we will certainly be running more walks next Christmas!

Some of the people who joined us have been kind enough to write about the day.

Mike Paterson of London Historians (the Capital’s premier club for Londoners who’d like to learn more about their city’s history) wrote about the 6am pre-dawn walk on the London Historians Blog. Mike and Fiona were also kind enough to make enough bacon butties not ony for the entire group but also for some very grateful rough-sleepers who we encountered.

Also on the intrepid 6am walk was Matt of Londonist (The site that encompasses all you need to know to get the most out of life in London). With the assistance of Heather, acting as human tripod, he also got some great shots of a deserted Central London and wrote about the walk here.

Later in the day we were joined by Jane of Jane’s London. Jane has an exceptional eye for little details in the London street-scape which she documents with beautiful photos on her blog. Some of the many photos she took on the morning feature in this blog post and many more can be found at her Flickr photostream.

Prior to the walk we were supported by so many people who tweeted, shared and liked details of the day. Thank you to all those Twitter followers and Facebook friends. Special thanks too to Londonist, Time Out and Ian Visits for listing the walks and to Tom of Tired of London, Tired of Life for the honour of choosing us to be his “One thing to do a day in London” for the 25th. The Time Out Blog also ran a feature on the walks and we are very grateful for that as well.

After each walk we had a break with our guests. For the very early walk we had a picnic of sweets, cognac and single malt whiskey in Trafalgar Square. At lunchtime we enjoyed great hospitality at the Bear & Staff near Leicester Square and we rounded the day off with delicious cocktails at The Hampshire Hotel.

So thanks again to everyone who made the day a success and such good fun. Here’s to more of the same in 2012.

 

 

The Winchester Madonna

Sculptor, Sir Charles Wheeler, produced many familiar works throughout London, from this gilded and winged Springbok at South Africa House, to a fountain in Trafalgar Square, along with large bodies of work at India House, The Bank of England and elsewhere.

But today, uniquely for this blog, I would like to feature a work of his that isn’t in London but can be seen instead in a former capital.

One of his very earliest commissions was for a Madonna and Child to stand over the entrance to Winchester College’s War Memorial Cloister.

The Madonna stands in a niche above the entrance to a cloister designed by Sir Herbert Baker. Wheeler always said that it was this work that established his reputation and led to his selection for work with Baker at the Bank of England, South Africa and India Houses. An art teacher at the school, Richard Gleadowe, who was also an advisor to the Admiralty on War artists, helped Wheeler to secure this early commission.

This was also the first time that Wheeler ” climbed onto scaffolding and carved direct on a building”. Architect Douglas St Leger was at the time working as an assistant to Baker and it was he who persuaded Wheeler to carve directly into the block of Portland stone already mounted above the arch.

Wheeler recalled that he was very hesitant because “as a beginner I thought I might have ruined the block and then I should have to bear the expense, which I couldn’t afford, of replacing it.”. It was only when St Leger offered to “pay for another monolith if anything went wrong” that Wheeler could begin. This method of carving in situ was then to become Wheeler’s favoured way of working.

Whilst Baker was the acknowledged architect of the cloister, the Headmaster of the school Monty Rendall also had a major influence on the design. Wheeler recalls that the two men discussed every detail together and became close friends.

The cloister was regarded by Wheeler to be one of the loveliest erected by the War Graves Commission after World War I. It was dedicated first in 1924 and then again, following WWII, in 1948. Inside there is also great deal of ornamental stone work.

In his autobiography High Relief, (1968) Country Life Books, Wheeler does not mention whether any of this additional work was carried out by himself but when he worked with Baker elsewhere he tended to produce a vast number of works for each project.

Wheeler said that “One day I will try to count up all the bronzes, stone and wood carvings as well as the plaster panels I have made for his buildings. Sufficient idea for the present maybe got from the fact that at The Bank of England alone I sculpted 14 over-life size statues, five large bronze doors 20 feet high, three smaller bronze doors, three busts, a couple of dozen key stones and innumerable bronze handles, medallions etc. etc. “.

Stylistically and practically it seems likely to me that Wheeler’s hand can be seen throughout the cloister but I have not been able to find a definite reference. (Since I first wrote this the archivist at The College has very kindly confirmed that there is more work by Wheeler, along with a number of other sculptors at the college. Time to plan another to trip to Winchester! I will post resulting photos soon.)

Access to the College is by guided tour only. Aside from the cloister you will also see  fine medieval buildings dating back to the school’s foundation in 1382, along with a Wren-like addition from the 17th Century. Full details of the tours are available here.

For more posts from this blog on Sir Charles Wheeler, please see the tags.

The author of this blog is a qualified City of Westminster Tour Guide who runs unique walking tours throughout London, see tabs for details.