Tag Archive: St James’s Park

London’s Top Sights in 1824

In 1824 William Darton (Junior) wrote a guide to London: A Description of London: Containing a Sketch of Its History and Present State, and of All the Most Celebrated Public Buildings, &c.

The tiny, 36 page, book was published by William Darton (Senior) of 58, Holborn Hill. It was available in two editions, plain for 1s. or, for just sixpence more, you could buy a copy with all eight engravings beautifully hand-coloured.

I couldn’t find the book or the images anywhere else on the net so here are all eight of the Most Celebrated Public Buildings, in colour, accompanied by the original captions and text.

I find it interesting to note what Darton chose not to illustrate, St James’s Palace, The Tower of London, St Paul’s or anything else in The City for that matter. But what most amuses me is his history, he  frustrates and illuminates in equal measure.  I imagine many a London enthusiast going back to double-check their trusted sources after reading Mr Darton’s version of many well-worn “facts”.

Westminster Abbey

Westminster Abbey

WESTMINSTER ABBEY

This interesting edifice was founded by Sebert, King of the East Saxons; but being afterwards destroyed by the Danes, it was rebuilt by Edgar in 958. Edward the Confessor again rebuilt the church in 1065. The present Church was built by Henry II, and his successor, except the two towers at the entrance, which are the work of Sir Christopher Wren. It is 360 feet long; the breadth of the nave is 72 feet, and of the cross aisle 195 feet.

The roof of the nave and of the cross aisle is supported by two rows of arches, one above the other, each of the pillars of which is a union of one ponderous round pillar, and four of a similar form, but extremely slender, continued from the base to the roof, which produce an uncommonly grand and awful effect. The choir is one of the most beautiful in Europe; and the elegant and interesting monuments with which the church is stored, especially in Poets’ Corner, add greatly to its attractions.

Our limits will allow us only to mention, but not to describe, some of the curiosities in this venerable pile, and in the other public buildings that are to follow. The most worthy of notice are Henry the Seventh’s Chapel, one of the finest places of gothic  architecture in. the world, called, by Leland, the wonder of the world; Edward the Confessor’s chapel, in which, among a great variety of valuable antiquity, models, and monuments, are the coronation chairs of the British sovereigns, and the very stone on which the ancient kings of Scotland used to be crowned. There are nine other chapels. The Cloisters, the Crypt, the Chapter House, in which Domesday Book is kept, the beautiful prospect from the towers of the Abbey, the Choir, the Altar, and the west window, must not be omitted. Prices of Admission—Henry VII.’s Chapel, 6db; North Transept, 6d.; Henry V.’s Chapel, 3d.; West-end and North-west Tower, 6d.; but it is usual to give a trifle to the conductor.

Westminster Hall

Westminster Hall

WESTMINSTER HALL
This is the largest room in Europe unsupported by pillars, except the theatre at Oxford; it is 275 feet long, and 74 broad. Westminster Hall, with the Houses of Lords and Commons, and other contiguous buildings, are the remains of the Old Royal Palace of Westminster, built by Edward the Confessor. This great hall, which has a curious chestnut roof in the gothic style, was built by William Rufus, and enlarged by Richard II.

It was originally used as a place to entertain the king’s guests and dependants in, on great festivals; Richard II.  entertained 10,000 persons within its walls, and it is still used for the coronation feasts. It is also fitted up for the trial of peers, or persons impeached by the House of Commons.

Under the roof of this hail, or in intimate connexion with it, is performed the most effective public business of this great empire. Here the representatives of the people deliberate ;—here every department of the law is administered in the three supreme courts, (King’s Bench, Common Pleas, and Exchequer,) and in the Court of Chancery ;—and here sit the Court of Final Appeal, and the other House of Legislature—the House of Lords.

Carlton Palace

Carlton Palace

CARLTON HOUSE
Is situated on the northern side of St. James’s Park, fronting Pall Mall, and is the residence of the present King. it is a modern building, and contains several magnificent apartments. It has the finest and most extensive armoury in the world, in which are some of the rarest specimens of the arms, &c. of all nations.

The principal front is separated from Pall Mall by a low screen, surmounted with a beautiful colonnade.

Hay Market Theatre

Hay Market Theatre

NEW THEATRE ROYAL, HAYMARKET
This is a summer theatre, opening about the middle of May, and closing in September. Though it is not so spacious as either of the winter houses, it is fitted up in a neat and tasteful style, and contains three tiers of boxes, a pit, and two galleries.

The price of admission to the boxes is 5s.; pit, 3s.; galleries, 2s. and 1s.; half price is not taken. The doors open at six, and the performance begins at seven o’clock.

The Horse Guards

The Horse Guards

HORSE-GUARDS, OR WAR OFFICE

This is an elegant stone building, separating Parliament Street from the eastern end of St. James’s Park, to which,it is the principal entrance. Here is transacted all the business of the British army in a great variety of departments. Two regiments of horse-guards do duty here; and here also three regiments of footguards have their orderly rooms. Under the two small pavilions at the entrance, two of the horse-guards, mounted and in uniform, are constantly stationed as sentinels.

White Hall

White Hall

WHITEHALL

The old palace of this name occupied a space along the bank of the river, a little below Westminster Bridge, beginning at Privy Gardens, and ending near Scotland-yard; it extended from the river to St. James’s Park and to Spring Gardens, and was originally the property of Hubert de Burgh, Justiciary of England, under Henry III., from whom it passed to the prelates of York, and was long called York House. Henry VIII. purchased it from Cardinal Wolsey, then Archbishop of York, when it became the residence of the kings of England, till the reign of Queen Anne, who held her court at St. James’s, in consequence of this palace being burnt down in 1697.

The Banqueting House occupies but a very small part of the site of the ancient palace, and derives its appellation from an old building used for public entertainments in the reign of Elizabeth. It is only a small portion of the vast plan of a palace, intended to be worthy of the residence of the British monarchs, but left incomplete. It was begun by order of James I.. and is the work of Inigo Jones. The great room is converted into a chapel, and over the altar stand several eagles taken from the French at the battles of Albuera and Barossa. The ceiling was painted by Rubens, and represents the apotheosis of James I.; it was lately retouched by Cipriani. In the court behind the Banqueting-house is a very fine statue of James II. Before the Banqueting-house Charles I. was beheaded on a scaffold erected for the purpose, to which lie passed through one of the windows, since bricked up: and he slept here the night before, in one of the small rooms.

Somerset House

Somerset House

SOMERSET HOUSE

On the site of Somerset House formerly stood a magnificent palace, built by the great and amiable Duke of Somerset, protector in the reign of Edward VI., who being barbarously attainted and executed, it fell to the crown. The present edifice was erected, under the powers of an Act of Parliament, by Sir William Chambers, for several public uses. It is an immense stone edifice, raised on piers and arches, on the banks of the Thames,and fronting the Strand. The terrace, as seen from the river, is very noble; it is raised on a grand rustic basement, having thirty-two spacious arches, and commands a beautiful part of the river, including Blackfriars and Westminster Bridges. The front of Somerset House, in the Strand, has a very magnificent aspect, and that which looks into the court is elegant in its composition, and considerably wider than the former.

In the extensive court is the statue of the late king, and at his feet a figure of the river Thames, pouring wealth and plenty from a large cornucopia. The three open arches in the Strand-front form the principal entrance; they lead to a spacious and elegant vestibule, in which are the rooms of the Royal Society, the Society of Antiquaries, and the Royal Academy of Arts. The various public offices, and houses of the officers, are at once commodious and elegant, worthy of the nation to which they belong. The hail of the Navy Office is a fine room, one of the fronts facing the terrace and river, and the other the court. The Stamp Office consists of a multitude of apartments, and the room in which the stamping is executed is very interesting to the curious.

Here are also the offices of the Auditor of the Exchequer—Chancellors of the Duchies of Cornwall and Lancaster—Hawkers and Pedlars—Lottery—Stage Coach —and revenue establishment of the Tax Offices. Somerset Place is also one of the wonders of the financial system of Great Britain.

Covent Garden Theatre

Covent Garden Theatre

COVENT-GARDEN THEATRE

This theatre was rebuilt in 1809, after the conflagration in 1808, and is, as a building, one of the ornaments of the metropolis, and the completest theatre in Europe. Great exertions have been made to raise its amusements to the highest pitch of scenic splendour and dramatic perfection; accordingly the dresses are more costly, and all the arrangements are on a more expensive scale than were ever before known in this metropolis. The colour of the interior is gold upon white. The prices for admission, time of opening and closing the house, and of commencing the performances, are the same as at Drury Lane.

The half-price begins at both theatres at the end of the third act of a play of five acts, or at the end of the second act of a play of three acts. Each theatre employs, as actors, artists, musicians, and mechanics, from 200 to 250 persons, at salaries from 30l. to 2l. a week. Each holds, when crowded, about 750l.; and with a full house., about 650l.; the nightly expenses are at least :200l.; hence the proprietors have clear profit of about 40,000l. per annum.

How many times did you disagree with Mr Darton? But have you got sources to back up all of your assertions? I know that he has not only given me some new information but that he will also make me think very carefully before I trot out some of the “universally accepted facts” of London’s history.

The author of this blog is a qualified and insured  City of Westminster Tour Guide who runs unique walking tours and private tours in London, please see tabs for details.

An Unusual Christmas Day in London Updated

For several years my Christmas Days have been devoted to walking around Central London and this year will be no different. Except that this year I will be working. My family generally get up and do the presents/stockings etc.  at around 5am, the aim is to be out of the house by about 5.30am and we don’t return home until the early evening. We might cover 10-12 miles on foot during a typical Christmas Day.

I realise that for some people this might not seem very Christmassy but it suits us down to the ground because I think Christmas Day is by far the most magical day to explore the city. The so familiar, iconic sights, are experienced anew, as if seen through fresh eyes, when the streets are truly empty.

Piccadilly Circus

The idea for these early morning walks was inspired by the film 28 Days Later. In that classic Danny Boyle film London is virtually deserted. I wanted, like the character Jim, to be able to walk across Westminster Bridge and be the only person on it. I wanted to explore the eerily empty streets and luckily so did my children! The only day of the year when such an experience is possible is Christmas Day and if you want to guarantee exclusive temporary use of the bridge you need to do so before dawn.

Oxford Street

The pre-dawn Christmas starts have enabled us to be the only people in Trafalgar Square, Piccadilly Circus and Leicester Square. We have sauntered down the middle of Regent and Oxford Streets without seeing a soul. We have been alone in Covent Garden, Fitzrovia and Soho. Squirrels and birds in St James’s Park, look genuinely confused by the fact that there no other humans around to offer a peanut or some bread.

St James's Park

By around dawn it becomes possible to find the odd place for a coffee. By lunchtime several pubs are open and we tend to pop in for an aperitif. After lunch we stroll around again, the possibilities for interesting walks are infinite. The pavements are a little busier by now but the road traffic is still minimal.  There are no wheely suitcases to be seen. Nobody is really going anywhere, there is nothing to buy and nothing else to do. The atmosphere is jovial all day, strangers greet and wish each other a “Happy Christmas”. By dusk the streets start to empty again and the Christmas lights come to the fore. And so we head back to the Sky+ and some decent wine.

It might not suit everyone to spend Christmas day walking around London. I am lucky, I live centrally so the lack of public transport makes no difference to me. But if you like me are somewhat obsessed with Central London in all its glory I do suggest that you try one year to see it on Christmas Day.

This year I will be walking again but for the first time in the company of visitors and London enthusiasts. A good mate of mine and an excellent guide, Colin Davey and I have teemed up to offer three unique Christmas Day walks:

Update 28th December 2011

Colin and I ran three tours during the day, the first, London at Dawn began at 6am, then another after breakfast and finally one after lunch.

Each was different but all were hugely enjoyable. We would like to thank all the wonderful local Londoners and visitors from Malaysia, Australia, Canada, Mexico and Uruguay who joined us. During the day we walked with true London experts, a professional historian, students, local workers, visitors and the indefatigable EdLondonDog.

The distances some people had walked to join us were staggering. One family had walked down from Swiss Cottage, other people came from Tower Bridge, Vauxhall, Chalk Farm and Holloway. A charming group of Canadians had only flown into Heathrow just a few hours before joining us and did the whole walk sustained by nothing more than their airline food!

All these hardy, good-humoured, interested and interesting walking companions really made the day special. It was so thoroughly enjoyable that, despite being hardly able to walk for two days afterwards, we will certainly be running more walks next Christmas!

Some of the people who joined us have been kind enough to write about the day.

Mike Paterson of London Historians (the Capital’s premier club for Londoners who’d like to learn more about their city’s history) wrote about the 6am pre-dawn walk on the London Historians Blog. Mike and Fiona were also kind enough to make enough bacon butties not ony for the entire group but also for some very grateful rough-sleepers who we encountered.

Also on the intrepid 6am walk was Matt of Londonist (The site that encompasses all you need to know to get the most out of life in London). With the assistance of Heather, acting as human tripod, he also got some great shots of a deserted Central London and wrote about the walk here.

Later in the day we were joined by Jane of Jane’s London. Jane has an exceptional eye for little details in the London street-scape which she documents with beautiful photos on her blog. Some of the many photos she took on the morning feature in this blog post and many more can be found at her Flickr photostream.

Prior to the walk we were supported by so many people who tweeted, shared and liked details of the day. Thank you to all those Twitter followers and Facebook friends. Special thanks too to Londonist, Time Out and Ian Visits for listing the walks and to Tom of Tired of London, Tired of Life for the honour of choosing us to be his “One thing to do a day in London” for the 25th. The Time Out Blog also ran a feature on the walks and we are very grateful for that as well.

After each walk we had a break with our guests. For the very early walk we had a picnic of sweets, cognac and single malt whiskey in Trafalgar Square. At lunchtime we enjoyed great hospitality at the Bear & Staff near Leicester Square and we rounded the day off with delicious cocktails at The Hampshire Hotel.

So thanks again to everyone who made the day a success and such good fun. Here’s to more of the same in 2012.

 

 

A Man With a Plan for London

Arthur Cawston, ARIBA, was a lesser known Scottish architect with huge ambitions but thankfully little influence. In 1893 he published A Comprehensive Scheme for Street Improvements in London (Stanford). The scale of his vision was immense, perhaps it is best grasped by inspecting his accompanying maps and drawings.

The major improvements to streets that  he advocated were building more of them and building them very wide. Below we can see his vision for St James’s Park, including a brand new roundabout in the middle of the lake. The Green Park too gains a new carriageway. Click on the image to see a larger version.

This is his illustration of the proposed new roundabout in St James’s Park, “Looking East from Existing Lake”. Above each plate he included a short motivational text. For this illustration he chose ” The Nation encourages freedom and distributes honours in order that society shall be founded on principles of general utility.”

Here, in a larger scale is his plan for Aldwych. The as yet unbuilt Kingsway is shown as a modest dotted blue line in contrast to Cawston’s own far bolder plans.

Cawston was a great admirer of Paris, he sought to rebuild London’s roads in “continental style” along a rational and symmetrical grid, with great boulevards and grand new vistas. His intention was to rid the city of squalor and improve the health and “welfare of the whole community” through regeneration. He writes with passion and unshakeable conviction in his cause, more in the tone of a social reformer then a town-planner. He was also clearly a very eccentric fellow.

He firmly believed that art in London had degenerated and that there was an increasing need for technical education. He chose, perhaps unwisely, to illustrate this point with a fold-out page featuring these photos of lamp-posts.

These are his ideal “Lamp-posts of twenty years ago on The Embankment”.

Whilst here are those degenerate and technically inept “Lamp-posts of today on the Embankment and near Shaftesbury Avenue”

Cawston presented his grand plan to a meeting at RIBA in January 1893. At this meeting Frederic Harrison, who was chair of London County Council’s Improvements committee politely kicked Arthur Cawston’s scheme into the long grass. He is quoted as saying:

A good many points would have to be considered before the London County Council could embark on so wide a scheme as Cawston had proposed. The cost of carrying it out would amount to about 150 millions, and he did not precisely see where the money was to come from.The financial side of the subject, indeed, would have to receive much further consideration.

Nevertheless “A vote of thanks to Mr. Cawston was passed”.

A Times book review in June 1893 also damned Mr Cawston’s plans with faint praise:

Mr. Cawston undertakes a task ‘too great for any private individual, and though his suggestions for the improvement of London are ingenious, interesting, and in some cases to be commended, they are open to criticism and controversy at almost every point, involving as they do broad new thoroughfares in every direction, new bridges across the Thames, and a startling interference with the present condtion on the parks.

And so the vision of Arthur Cawston never materialised and much of what he would have demolished remains standing. His book is still available though in various print on demand editions but not all of these have the illustrations and maps, which for me, are what make it such an entertaining read.
Refs from The Times, Tuesday, Jan 31, 1893; pg. 10; Issue 33862; col F & Friday, Jun 30, 1893; pg. 3; Issue 33991; col C

The author of this blog is a qualified City of Westminster Tour Guide who runs unique walking tours in London, see tabs for details.

St James’s Elephant

Last week’s Weekend Elephant was to be found on the hoardings surrounding some  portakabins in St James’s Park.

Those hoardings are to be found to the east of the park, near Horseguards Parade.

Each panel celebrates an aspect of the Royal Parks’ history. This year the Royal Parks are celebrating 160 years of them all being open to the public. It was in 1851 that the Crown Lands Act was passed, transferring management of St James’s and seven other parks to the Government.

 

The elephant panel reminds us that in 1763 George III was given an elephant as a present and that said elephant needed to be exercised, so it was taken for regular walks through the park.

The first person to correctly locate this week’s elephant was an out of towner! Scarcely before I had hit “publish”,  young Aenas of Florence (aged 12) had sent in a correct answer. Congratulations to you Aenas, or should that be “praise be” to you?  I hope you enjoyed the rest of your holiday and that your journey home was not as fraught with as many problems as your arrival! It is always good to hear from such a keen-eyed observer and such an elephant fan. By the way, your English is far better than mine!

This week’s Weekend Elephant will be published, as ever, on Friday.

Readers will then have the whole  weekend to email the precise location to me. The first person to identify each weekend’s elephant is always rewarded with a glorious mention sometime on Monday when the location is officially revealed.

If you would like to nominate an elephant for future inclusion please drop me a line; all publicly visible, permanent or semi-permanent, London-based elephants, regardless of size, medium or location will be considered!

The author of this blog is a qualified City of Westminster Tour Guide who runs unique walking tours throughout London, see tabs for details.