Category Archives: Photography

The London Horse

The British Museum have just opened a new, free, exhibition The horse: from Arabia to Royal Ascot

The exhibition seeks to demonstrate that “The history of the horse is the history of civilisation itself”.

Well I don’t know much about the history of civilization beyond the M25 but surely no other creature has done so much to shape London or been employed here in so many different roles.

So to celebrate the opening, whilst wearing my best London blinkers, I thought I would share some rare images of horses in London. All of these come from the late Nineteenth and Early Twentieth Century.

Even in the 1920s and 30s horse were transporting the majority of the Capital’s goods.

A London Horse delivering newsprint - 1920s

A London Horse delivering newsprint - 1920s

Here are cart horses enjoying a drink at one of the many drinking  fountains that can still be found in London today. This one (on the corner of Mark Lane and Tower Hill) was provided by The Metropolitan Drinking Fountain and Cattle Trough Association .

Horses at a drinking trough - 1920s

Horses at a drinking trough - 1920s

Horses could be a source of pride as well as of labour.

Judging at the annual Cart Horse Parade in Regent's Park - 1920s

Judging at the annual Cart Horse Parade in Regent's Park - 1920s

Horses were crucial for transporting people.

Horse-drawn trams at Elephant & Castle, circa 1880

Horse-drawn trams at Elephant & Castle, circa 1880

Horse-drawn bus circa 1900

Horse-drawn bus circa 1900

Cab, circa 1890

Cab, circa 1890

Long after hunting ended in the Royal Parks horses were, and still are, being used for leisure.

Riding in Hyde Park - 1920s

Riding in Hyde Park - 1920s

Being admired on Rotten Row, Hyde Park - 1920s

Being admired on Rotten Row, Hyde Park - 1920s

A meeting of The Coaching Club on the Ladies Mile, Hyde Park, circa 1896

A meeting of The Coaching Club on the Ladies Mile, Hyde Park, circa 1896

Equestrian sport has always drawn crowds.

Derby Day at Epsom, circa 1896

Derby Day at Epsom, circa 1896

Polo at Ranelagh - 1920s

Polo at Ranelagh - 1920s

 Horses are still employed in so many ceremonies.

The State Opening of Parliament, circa 1926

The Changing of the Guard at Horse Guard's, circa 1926.

A Lifeguard at Horse Guard's - 1920s

A Lifeguard at Horse Guard's - 1920s

The British Museum exhibition The horse: from Arabia to Royal Ascot is part of the Museum’s Diamond Jubilee Celebration. It is open daily from 24 May – 30 September 2012 and admission is free.

The author of this blog is a qualified and insured City of Westminster Tour Guide who runs unique walking tours and private tours in London. All my public tours are bookable through Eventbrite.

If you liked this post, or found it useful, please share it.

A Fine New Companion in The City of London

There are countless books on The City of London but a new title improves upon so many that have gone before.

The City of London: A Companion Guide is a genuinely useful and beautiful book with broad appeal. Anyone who wants to explore and understand this most historic part of the Capital now has a single, portable, readable, volume to guide them and the most dedicated City historian has gained an up-to-date resource packed with glorious photographs.

The Willis Building on Lime Street ©Marcus Rochowski/VIEW

The Willis Building on Lime Street ©Marcus Rochowski/VIEW

The image of the Willis building, above, is just one of nearly 500 stunning photos.

The text is excellent too. The authors, working under the editorship of Sir Nicholas Kenyon, succinctly, authoritatively and engagingly explain and examine The City; its history, institutions and architecture. Together they have produced the most accessible book I have ever seen on The City of London.

One does not need to be an expert on  finance to appreciate their examination of key institutions in The Square Mile’s history and development.

The Bank of England, Tivoli Corner at the north-west tip of the Bank © James Morris/VIEW

The Bank of England, Tivoli Corner at the north-west tip of the Bank © James Morris/VIEW

Overseas Bankers’ Club ©Quintin Lake/VIEW

The former Overseas Bankers’ Club ©Quintin Lake/VIEW

Interior of the Royal Exchange today following refurbishment in 2001 ©Kilian O’Sullivan/VIEW

Interior of the Royal Exchange today following refurbishment in 2001 ©Kilian O’Sullivan/VIEW

One does not need to be an ecclesiastical architecture buff to enjoy the book either. All of the city churches are showcased beautifully but here they are not dealt with in isolation, as they often are elsewhere.

St Bartholomew-the-Great © James Morris/VIEW

St Bartholomew-the-Great © James Morris/VIEW

This book splits the City into eight areas, provides a map of each, and then deals with each area’s significant architecture and history. The City is made so much easier to explore and to appreciate when it is broken into these varied, bite-sized chunks.

The role of the Livery companies and the City’s unique method of governance, can make for very dull reading indeed, but not here. The Companion explains and reinvigorates even the driest of these subjects with its light but assured touch.  Every subject is complimented by superb images of places that can often be difficult to visit in person.

Tallow Chandler’s Hall ©David Borland/VIEW

Tallow Chandler’s Hall ©David Borland/VIEW

The ‘salle des pas perdus’ of the Central Criminal Court ©James Morris/VIEW

The ‘salle des pas perdus’ of the Central Criminal Court ©James Morris/VIEW

Of course all the well known “icons” of The City are covered too.

St Paul’s Cathedral ©James Morris/VIEW

St Paul’s Cathedral ©James Morris/VIEW

But, in addition to the inclusions that demand to made, there are numerous, lesser-known buildings and places. I hadn’t realised, for example, that the shopfront at 115 Cannon Street is by Walter Gropius, the founder of  the Bauhaus School. Nor had I seen the majority of the archive images that accompany the modern photos before. Well, that is not strictly true, I should say “I hadn’t seen them until recently”.

Just before Christmas Thames and Hudson published a very large, sumptuous,  coffee-table book:  The City of London: Architectural Tradition & Innovation in the Square Mile. I have a copy and this new Companion is essentially a reworking of that book.

The physical size and weight of the Companion have reduced the previous title, to make it, if not quite pocket-sized, then certainly manageable on the bus or Tube and usable on the street. The price has been halved too. The images, text and high production values remain unscathed. I think this new edition is certainly worth owning, even if you already have the rather lovely, but unwieldy, version.

As a single-volume introduction to the architecture and history of The City of London, I don’t think it can be beaten.

The City of London: A Companion Guide

The City of London: A Companion Guide
General Editor: Sir Nicholas Kenyon
Published by Thames & Hudson
Price: £18.95

ISBN 978 0 500 342794

368pp
Size
22.9 x 15.2cm

Illustrations
470 illustrations, 390 in colour

 

 

The author of this blog is a qualified and insured City of Westminster Tour Guide who runs unique walking tours and private tours in London. All my public tours are bookable through Eventbrite.

If you liked this post, or found it useful, please share it.

There are no Cells at The Viaduct Tavern

Viaduct 2

In countless books, guides, apps and websites dealing with “Secret”, “Hidden” and “Curious” London it is asserted with bland confidence that the cellars of the Viaduct Tavern contain cells from old Newgate Prison. This is nonsense but sometimes a picture can help to nail a lie better than dates.

This image dates from 1897 and shows the last incarnation of Newgate Prison on the same site, facing the newly built Viaduct Tavern.

Newgate Prison and The Viaduct Tavern 1897

Newgate Prison and The Viaduct Tavern 1897

Newgate Prison wasn’t completely demolished until 1902. The Viaduct Tavern was built in 1869. So there is an obvious discrepancy in dates, but that aside, would it really have been conceivable that prison authorities would have wanted some of their cells to be included within the cellars of a brand new pub as it was being built?

The image below dates from around 1927. The view is much the same today. Newgate has now been replaced by “The Old Bailey”. The Viaduct looks on.

Old Bailey and The Viaduct Tavern

Old Bailey and The Viaduct Tavern

So the dates don’t add up and the proposal is ludicrous but that doesn’t stop those that peddle regurgitated “hidden gems” of London. Even supposedly authoritative books glibly trot out the same old tosh. This is the entry from the latest edition of The London Encyclopedia.

Viaduct Tavern - From The London Encyclopedia

Viaduct Tavern - From The London Encyclopedia

In the London Encyclopedia entry for Newgate Prison they even use precisely the same illustration that I did to show the Viaduct Tavern and Newgate were both standing at the same time, page 585 for those of you who wish to check.

And here is a typical entry from one of the plethora of “hidden gems” type books. This is from Secret London – An Unusual Guide.

Newgate Cells from Secret London

Newgate Cells from Secret London

These beer and coal cellars are interpreted in much the same way elsewhere. Sometimes, as here, in the most embellished and fanciful accounts, the coal holes are  referred to as feeding tubes for prisoners.

This is not a “feeding tube” but a coal plate mounted above a coal cellar, just like hundreds of thousands still to be found throughout London.

Coal plate outside the Viaduct Tavern immediately above one of the "cells"

Coal plate outside the Viaduct Tavern immediately above one of the "cells"

Here is an image of an actual cell in Newgate, it dates from 1897, about when the pub was celebrating its first birthday. Tellingly, it completely lacks racks for beer barrels, such as those to be found in the Viaduct.

A Newgate Cell 1897

A Newgate Cell 1897

This image is also from 1897 and shows how the cells were arranged, above ground.

Inside Newgate Prison 1897

Inside Newgate Prison 1897

Even the pub’s own website (via Fullers) doesn’t make the claim that the cellars were once cells in Newgate, preferring a more cautious assertion that they were part of “the Giltspur Comptor, a debtors’ jail affiliated to Newgate Prison”.

Fullers Website

Fullers Website

Well it would be nice to think so but the The Museum of London Archaeology Service disagree. The pub wasn’t on the site of the Compter and the Compter’s foundations have long gone in any case.

This is from the 1998 MOLAS report of fieldwork surveys on the site (carried out during the construction of the New Merrill Lynch Regional Headquarters, which occupied the site of Giltspur Street Compter) : King Edward Buildings, former Royal Mail Sorting Office, Giltspur & Newgate Street, EC1, the key paragraph is this one:

In early 1787 the majority of the site was cleared of buildings and later that year the construction of the Giltspur Street Compter prison begun (see London Archaeologist 1993, vol. 7, 115-121), and it was ready for occupation by 1791. The overall layout of the brick-built prison buildings can be established from surviving draft plans. Excavations to date have revealed some unrecorded design features including one stairwell and number of brick-built culverts. Excavation of the foundations of several blocks have revealed that they were interlaced with pine planks and beams, which are being studied as part of an English Heritage funded project on imported softwoods. The prison was in closed in 1853 and demolished in 1854, this work entailed the extensive robbing out of the below ground foundations.

So there we have it. Will this little blog post help to stem the flow of nonsense? Probably not, but at least I have got this particular gripe off my chest.

If you are in the mood for more London “facts” that aren’t actually true why not have a look at this excellent feature from Londonist from a few months back?

The author of this blog is a qualified and insured City of Westminster Tour Guide who runs unique walking tours and private tours in London. All my public tours are bookable through Eventbrite.

If you liked this post, or found it useful, please share it.